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Do not go for Samsung or LG split inverter ac’s. They have less cooling effect. I personally have both of these and trust me their air output is very less. Its like using cooler lol. Outdoor unit makes hell of a noise even though it’s mentioned that max noise is 50db but it goes above 65db even with proper rubber pads installed.
Go for Voltas or Daikin for best cooling experience.
Go for Voltas or Daikin for best cooling experience.
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Ugh. Piping was installed around 4 years ago. Any possibility that r32 was common at the time? Or old ac don't work on this new piping so installation guy might have used different piping for this model? This is going to be a problem coz ac is on ground floor and pipe is going to the roof on second floor lol. Dad might not like the outside unit installed on the side of the house.
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Piping parameters are set by the ac manufacturers. I had brought my Hitachi in 2010 when r22 was prevalent. I am not sure what existed before r22, but in any case the old piping would be useless.
Clarify me one thing. Elaborate how you have managed your piping arrangement. I am already thinking it's extended coz the distance between gnd and 2nd floor is too much to be covered by the company provided pipe.
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@Rickysin did you vacuum your system? Not vacuuming leads to loss of gas from system which puts more pressure on compressor to cool which leads to more noise, poor cooling.
If I run my system at 27C it literally chills my room, so have to run it at 28C.
The only noise I hear is the inverter's high frequency noise when it is at high speed. When the desired temps are reached, it slows down. And I have just 2 rubber pads instead of 4(bastard robbed me), so no noise.
If I run my system at 27C it literally chills my room, so have to run it at 28C.
The only noise I hear is the inverter's high frequency noise when it is at high speed. When the desired temps are reached, it slows down. And I have just 2 rubber pads instead of 4(bastard robbed me), so no noise.
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we got first floor and half of second floor built 4-5 years ago. at the time dad got all ac outside units moved to the roof so all piping were laid by the Daikin guys in the outside wall (inside the wall cemented so replacing it is not really an option without breaking the wall again). dad said that same piping was used for all ACs. 4 ACs were installed on the first floor (2 of them have pipes going to the roof along with 2 on the ground floor). all purchased from the same daikin guys. so if r32 was used in daikin acs 4-5 years ago, the piping should be the same for the ground floor acs as well. i mean are the pipes different in design or material or thickness that one can check before buying the ac?
***
Update: Ended up buying Daikin GTQ60TV16.
***
Update: Ended up buying Daikin GTQ60TV16.
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Solution
@Tejas01 yes that’s the same high pitch noise i hear and that noise doesn’t go away. I had set ac to 20 ^c and still cooling is less, though if i put my hand near the indoor unit i do feel cold air blowing out but not enough to cool the room.
Looking at the room temperature it never drops below 26 degrees. May be room is at top floor and hence its not able to cool.
even if someone says but a 2 ton ac instead of 1.5 ton then also it doesn’t makes sense as the cooling capacity difference is only 1000 w more.
on 2 ton its 6000w and on 1.5 ton its 5000w
I had seen Voltas and Daikin and even bluestar ac with awesome cooling than samung and LG
Looking at the room temperature it never drops below 26 degrees. May be room is at top floor and hence its not able to cool.
even if someone says but a 2 ton ac instead of 1.5 ton then also it doesn’t makes sense as the cooling capacity difference is only 1000 w more.
on 2 ton its 6000w and on 1.5 ton its 5000w
I had seen Voltas and Daikin and even bluestar ac with awesome cooling than samung and LG
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This indicates your piping has been extended coz under no circumstances the original pipe can go that far. The extended piping arrangement can be done by any company, even local ac guy for that matter. It's like extending usb wire using male female arrangement.
When you initially mentioned keeping internal piping intact, I got confused.
Since the pipes are embedded in the walls, so we have to assume your machine was vacuumed when you moved or hopefully, less damage to new pipes after usage. Either way nothing can be done to check it since its embedded.
You are good to go. I am hoping that you would have atleast 1-2 inch extra of pipe on both sides of your extended pipe(one part connecting to the factory provided pipe, other part connecting to your ODU). Coz the technician will have to cut a part of copper from both ends, make hole large enough to fit new pipe with ac and then flare it.
This matters only for the factory provided pipes which come with AC. Their thickness varies to manage the pressure of the refrigerant used in the system. Not aware of any method to check the same.
While I believe there should be no issues, its better to ask for an opinion from the seller. While his knowledge might be limited, explaining him face to face would give a 100% surety.
If you are getting it offline, do ask them what is the cost of each part. In your case it should only be labour charges or at max ODU stand(if previous damaged). Also, if you don't intend to purchase anything from them, clear evrything from dealer. Things could get nasty as extra piping, stand, drain pipe are the only ways they can demand more money from you.
Also, do vacuum your ac during installation. This can only be done during installation, or during refill.
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@Rickysin what is the tonnage? How old is it? Which part of India you from? What are the room dimensions? May be you are having under-tonnage ac(either in terms of room size or multiple heat sources).
Higher than necessary tonnage is suggested when you have multiple heat sources- walls receiving heat from many sides, roof. In your case the warm air from roof could more than overwhelm an under-tonnage ac.
Lack of cooling is primarily due to three reasons-
1. Lack of gas in the system- leakage, non vacuuming, corrosion.
2. Under tonnage- compressor struggling to remove the heat, hence the warm air coming back to evaporator, hence less cool air.
3. Compressor out in the open- it gets heat from both the sun and trying to cool your room. If it's too hot, it will start throttling just like what happens to processors in laptops, mobiles.
Since your machine is not able to reach the set temperature so the compressor will never step-down to reduce the speed and hence that high pitched noise.
Less gas-
Can you access your ODU? If yes, get a MECO clamp meter (I got this Meco 27-auto Digital Clamp Meter, Red: Amazon.in: Industrial & Scientific)
and see the ampere reading. I am assuming you have 1.5 ton so it should be 7A, 800gms refrigerant under full load. If your ac on the meter shows less than 7A, then it indicates less gas in system. The more the difference, the lesser the gas.
Less gas could be due to non-vacuuming(hence gas escapes during installation. So you end up with less than 800 gms of refrigerant for 1.5 ton) or leakage somewhere. It's better to call their technician and let them deal with it. Refer YT on how to get ampere reading for AC. Very simple.
Under tonnage- nothing can be done here.
Compressor over heating- Try to give some shade. Have some plants nearby compressor so that it can suck in cool air from the side and the rear and hence perform an effective heat exchange.
You can also look for this, I was about to purchase this as it protects from heat and rain.
I will give an example of automobile. The fuel pipe running from fuel tank to engine should have only and only fuel, no impurities. If impurities exist, then there is issue with engine. But it has an exhaust system wherein impurities can be discarded from the engine to ensure smooth functioning.
Coming to AC, the system should have only oil and refrigerant in the system for effective heat exchange. As you know, air has lots of impurities(oxygen, nitrogen, water vapour, gases, pollutants, dust etc). So vacuuming is needed to remove these impurities from the system. If no vacuuming done, then these impurities, after several compression-expansion cycles in the compressor, start reacting with oil and refrigerant in the system forming grease-like paste within the pipe. This paste not only allows incomplete heat transfer, but also starts to corrode the pipe from the inside leading to gas leakage, poor heat exchange and hence less cooling. Also, AC's are closed system, meaning there is no provision to throw out those impurities, hence they keep cycling in the system. That is why vacuuming is done during installation prior to running the AC or during gas topup.
Some companies are very strict with vacuuming. Mitsubishi clearly states warranty is void if no vacuuming done.
What is the recent trend- installation guys instead of vacuuming use the refrigerant to purge the air. While this works, it is at the cost of gas, meaning because of this your system now has less gas even before using the ac. So if you system came with 800 gms gas, due to this you could be running 200-300-400 gms less(don't know exact figure, need research). Less gas means less cooling. Also common sense dictates that a vacuuming process which takes atleast 30 mins cannot give same result as the above which is like a 1-2 second process.
We Indians as usual are very lazy and that includes these technicians too. Since they have to carry vacuum motor pump, they will make lot of excuses ki Sir zarori nahi hai, modern machine mein nahi chahiye blah blah. If you go through any AC manual(LG since you have it), it is clearly mentioned in the steps to install ac.
To put it crudely, vacuuming is like a bacteria- very small, innocent from the outside. Once inside the system, it wreaks havoc.
My Hitachi 1.2 ton went bad primarily due to lack of vacuuming(pipes corroded from inside and outside).
I had almost opted for Voltas as suggested by igloo and Mikrotik, but it doesn't have any protection for corrosion for IDU. And this is a must coz water droplets form inside the machine and causes corrosion. Offourse, its area specific too. Northern India have dry weather so corrosion is less of issue, in my case it is a deal breaker. So went for LG.
I hope this post helps you and others. Being well-informed ensures those technicians don't give bullshit reasons when they come to rectify your issue. LG support is very good so you can raise tickets multiple times until you get resolution. Option to raise it with CEO too.. that seriously scares the shi+ out of those technicians(personal experience).
Higher than necessary tonnage is suggested when you have multiple heat sources- walls receiving heat from many sides, roof. In your case the warm air from roof could more than overwhelm an under-tonnage ac.
Lack of cooling is primarily due to three reasons-
1. Lack of gas in the system- leakage, non vacuuming, corrosion.
2. Under tonnage- compressor struggling to remove the heat, hence the warm air coming back to evaporator, hence less cool air.
3. Compressor out in the open- it gets heat from both the sun and trying to cool your room. If it's too hot, it will start throttling just like what happens to processors in laptops, mobiles.
Since your machine is not able to reach the set temperature so the compressor will never step-down to reduce the speed and hence that high pitched noise.
Less gas-
Can you access your ODU? If yes, get a MECO clamp meter (I got this Meco 27-auto Digital Clamp Meter, Red: Amazon.in: Industrial & Scientific)
and see the ampere reading. I am assuming you have 1.5 ton so it should be 7A, 800gms refrigerant under full load. If your ac on the meter shows less than 7A, then it indicates less gas in system. The more the difference, the lesser the gas.
Less gas could be due to non-vacuuming(hence gas escapes during installation. So you end up with less than 800 gms of refrigerant for 1.5 ton) or leakage somewhere. It's better to call their technician and let them deal with it. Refer YT on how to get ampere reading for AC. Very simple.
Under tonnage- nothing can be done here.
Compressor over heating- Try to give some shade. Have some plants nearby compressor so that it can suck in cool air from the side and the rear and hence perform an effective heat exchange.
You can also look for this, I was about to purchase this as it protects from heat and rain.
Guru Dust Proof/Water Proof Air Condition Outdoor Protection Cover with Length Adjustable Hooks | Color: Silver (1.5 Ton (48x24.5 Inches x6mm)) : Amazon.in: Home & Kitchen
Guru Dust Proof/Water Proof Air Condition Outdoor Protection Cover with Length Adjustable Hooks | Color: Silver (1.5 Ton (48x24.5 Inches x6mm)) : Amazon.in: Home & Kitchen
www.amazon.in
Vacuuming as the name suggests is to remove all the impurities present in the system to ensure maximum cooling and long life.
I will give an example of automobile. The fuel pipe running from fuel tank to engine should have only and only fuel, no impurities. If impurities exist, then there is issue with engine. But it has an exhaust system wherein impurities can be discarded from the engine to ensure smooth functioning.
Coming to AC, the system should have only oil and refrigerant in the system for effective heat exchange. As you know, air has lots of impurities(oxygen, nitrogen, water vapour, gases, pollutants, dust etc). So vacuuming is needed to remove these impurities from the system. If no vacuuming done, then these impurities, after several compression-expansion cycles in the compressor, start reacting with oil and refrigerant in the system forming grease-like paste within the pipe. This paste not only allows incomplete heat transfer, but also starts to corrode the pipe from the inside leading to gas leakage, poor heat exchange and hence less cooling. Also, AC's are closed system, meaning there is no provision to throw out those impurities, hence they keep cycling in the system. That is why vacuuming is done during installation prior to running the AC or during gas topup.
Some companies are very strict with vacuuming. Mitsubishi clearly states warranty is void if no vacuuming done.
What is the recent trend- installation guys instead of vacuuming use the refrigerant to purge the air. While this works, it is at the cost of gas, meaning because of this your system now has less gas even before using the ac. So if you system came with 800 gms gas, due to this you could be running 200-300-400 gms less(don't know exact figure, need research). Less gas means less cooling. Also common sense dictates that a vacuuming process which takes atleast 30 mins cannot give same result as the above which is like a 1-2 second process.
We Indians as usual are very lazy and that includes these technicians too. Since they have to carry vacuum motor pump, they will make lot of excuses ki Sir zarori nahi hai, modern machine mein nahi chahiye blah blah. If you go through any AC manual(LG since you have it), it is clearly mentioned in the steps to install ac.
To put it crudely, vacuuming is like a bacteria- very small, innocent from the outside. Once inside the system, it wreaks havoc.
My Hitachi 1.2 ton went bad primarily due to lack of vacuuming(pipes corroded from inside and outside).
I had almost opted for Voltas as suggested by igloo and Mikrotik, but it doesn't have any protection for corrosion for IDU. And this is a must coz water droplets form inside the machine and causes corrosion. Offourse, its area specific too. Northern India have dry weather so corrosion is less of issue, in my case it is a deal breaker. So went for LG.
I hope this post helps you and others. Being well-informed ensures those technicians don't give bullshit reasons when they come to rectify your issue. LG support is very good so you can raise tickets multiple times until you get resolution. Option to raise it with CEO too.. that seriously scares the shi+ out of those technicians(personal experience).
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